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We spent the last six days in the Teton Wilderness. Here are a few snapshots: losing the trail over twenty miles from the trailhead. It reminded me too much of last year when hiking in to visit the trail crew I was lost for 4 hours in that unintuitive landscape of gentle folds, thick spruce, and skeletal ’88 burns: that day I was on my feet for near 35 miles. This time it was snowing and we had no tent. We continued and the jumble took form again; we could read it, we found our meadow. / At The Parting of the Waters, the bed of North Two Ocean Creek flows right down the Continental Divide before splitting into Atlantic and Pacific creeks: here, a fish could swim up the Mississippi drainage and out the Columbia. / A long tailed weasel, changing colors into winter-white ermine and looking splotchy blonde, came right up to stare at us before maniacally scampering on. We saw no other humans that day. / Hawk’s Rest is the common formed where two tremendous river valleys meet: the upper Yellowstone and Thorofare Creek. We stayed two nights in the ranger station, site of many stories, we ate pancakes and poked around great willow flats in falling snow and wondered if we’d be able to leave or if the snow would just keep falling. The most remote spot in the lower 48 is, notoriously, a couple miles away. / Beaver dams make excellent bridges across swampy meadows. We used three. They were helpful but rarely have I wanted, so badly, to stay.

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